Rose Island - Jewel of Narragansett Bay

By Charlotte Johnson
Reprinted From Norman Bird Sanctuary Flier, Fall 2000

As friends of the Norman Bird Sanctuary undoubtedly realize, open space is a precious commodity on the New England coast. Open space on an island of historic significance, that also supports valuable natural habitats and educational opportunities, is as rare as a blue diamond-Rose Island is just such a treasure with oh-so-many facets. That is why we think of it as the jewel of Narragansett Bay.

The crown jewel, of course, is the lighthouse. Abandoned and vandalized after the Newport Bridge was built, today the restored lighthouse is a wonderful success story. The most recent chapter was written in June 1999, when the Rose Island Lighthouse Foundation (RILF) bought the remaining 17 acres of Rose Island. The following article is dedicated with great appreciation to the memory of the man who quietly and skillfully negotiated the purchase--Peter Merritt.

When Native Americans named it "Conockonoquit" (meaning place of the long point), Rose Island was more than 25 acres in size. Like many of the other grassy bay islands, it was highly valued during Colonial times for grazing animals away from predators. Boats or barges ferried livestock that were summarily shoved off to wade through the shallow waters thick with eel grass, and brimming with shellfish. By the end of 1898, a series of severe storms had reduced the long grassy north point to the tidal flats seen today, leaving a total of about 18 acres. Much of the eelgrass managed to hold on, though--at least until the 1938 hurricane.

Because of its strategic location inside the entrance of Narragansett Bay, with an unobstructed view to Block Island, Rose Island was critical to the early coastal defense of Newport Harbor. An early British battery, plus French earthworks were constructed there before 1780. Rose Island was purchased from the Goddard family (of cabinet-making fame) by the newly-formed United States in 1799 for $1,500, while construction proceeded on the nation's Fort Hamilton--the largest fort ever undertaken there. Despite the fact that it was never finished or manned, Ft. Hamilton has been determined eligible for the National Register of Historic Places.

In 1869, the lighthouse was built upon its southwest circular bastion to guide steamships of the Bristol and Fall River Lines into Newport Harbor. The bomb-proof barracks were also put to use, first as a quarantine hospital when Asiatic cholera hit the area in 1820, then as an explosives magazine utilized through both World Wars.

With millions of pounds of TNT stored at Rose Island, security was very tight. Miles of barbed wire and chain-link encircled the island, and 24-hour guards patrolled the perimeter. Citizens estimated that if a spy set it off, the blast would remove Rose Island from the face of the earth, as well as blow out every window on the Bay all the way to Fall River. Thus the lighthouse keepers were the only permanent residents and they were restricted to the light station's 1.5 acres (it became necessary in 1904 to fence off this property from the Torpedo Station, after the keeper's cow wandered into--and fortunately emerged in one piece-- from one of the magazines).

By the mid-1980s, the once mowed grass had given way to a tangled succession of hundreds of species of native and naturalized plants. Today it is recognized as one of the Bay's most abundant habitats for colonial maritime nesting birds, including Glossy Ibis, Great and Snowy Egrets, Black-crowned Night Herons, and Little Blue Herons.

Rose Island's rocky shores have become home to another keynote bird--the American Oystercatcher-- arguably the most handsome of New England's shorebirds. Two to three pairs nest annually near the dilapidated TNT filling station. Even though the earliest sighting in the state was noted here one February, the most sensitive period stretches from April 1 to August 15, when walking around the island (even on the beaches) is prohibited.

As the colder months approach, we watch for Harbor Seals to return. From December to April, up to 72 at a time haul out on Citing Rock on the island's east side. This area is known today for its healthy, ever-increasing amounts of eelgrass--enough, in fact to transplant to other parts of the Bay. During the fall and winter, Peregrine Falcons can also be seen searching for their favorite meal--pigeon. This is also the best time to organize volunteers to clear paths and to free these buildings from vines, so they can be evaluated for historical significance and structural integrity. Some buildings may have to be demolished, others might be left to fall into picturesque ruin, while still others may have a future as blinds for researchers and photographers.

So as you can see, the story of Rose Island is still being written.

~ For more information ~
Charlotte Johnson, Executive Director, Rose Island Lighthouse Foundation, with the assistance of Charles Avenengo, Education Committee Member. Call 401-847-4242 or visit their web site at www.RoseIsland.org

© Copyright 2000-2003 by the Norman Bird Sanctuary